End of On the Road Again 2022

We spent over a week at Lucky Bay, with intermittent showers but lots of sunny days too. We climbed Frenchman Peak again and did numerous walks and swims along the coast of the Cape Le Grand National Park. The turquoise water and white sand beaches are stunning everywhere you look. They are shallow so swimming is easy, if cool. Between Lucky Bay and Esperance we saw many intensely green pastures full of black cattle. I guess Aberdeen Angus is popular here.

Lucky Bay

Frenchman Peak

View from the cave at summit of peak

Cows near Esperance

We stayed a couple of days in Esperance, and then moved on to Fitzgerald River National Park. This park has the largest species biodiversity of anywhere in the world and has particularly interesting flowers. Even though we were there in the autumn and not the height of spring, there were plenty of unusual flowers to see. Like the Royal Hakea, a plant named in honour of Queen Victoria. Some say this is because it is like her – upright and prickly.

Royal Hakea and other wild flowers

The weather was squally here with huge seas and high winds the first day, but we did some exploring and hiking the next day. Climbing over huge rocks at the edge of the ocean, we came on the Western Australian solution to rock fishermen not being washing into the sea. They have imbedded large rings in the rocks and fishermen are instructed to tether themselves to the rings.

Anchor ring for fishermen

Safe rock fishing in WA

We passed through Hopetoun, where a coffee shop/grocery store owner explained that the hundreds of 10 kilo boxes of rice he had stockpiled were insurance against the next 6 months when aircraft fuel is going to run out and we will face famine. I wonder if he knows something we don’t. The soothing sign “Remember that Jesus loves you” was visible as we left the shop.

On our way north to Hyden, the home of “Wave Rock”, we passed miles and miles of broadacre farms that stretched to the horizon. Every little town had huge grain storages, both permanent silos and temporary plastic covered hills. Between this and the Eyre peninsula area of SA, the grain exports from Australia must be mammoth. I guess the problems in Ukraine will be good for Australian farmers.

Wave Rock is what is known as an inselberg, a large lump of rock sticking out of a plain. This one has eroded so that the one face looks like a breaking wave. It is very unusual and beautiful. A local high school teacher who was a hobby photographer entered a photo of Wave Rock in a National Geographic competition in the 1950’s. The photo won first prize and started a wave of tourists who wanted to see this natural phenomenon. The economy of Hyden is now split between agriculture and tourism.

Wave Rock

From Hyden we took the 300 km Granite Woodlands Discovery Trail, a gravel road, back to Norseman. This road passes through various changes in landscape, and has lots of wildflowers, more inselbergs, some stunningly eroded cliffs or “breakaways”, and free campsites along the way. Apart from the dust and a fine coating of mud on the car from a few rain showers, it was a good shortcut.

The Breakaways

The Breakaways

We took 3 days to recross the Nullarbor, nothing much new or exciting to describe except for a stop at Head of the Bight where there is a big whale watching area. The Southern Right Whales come here at this time of year to calve off the cliffs just east of Nullarbor Road House. We were lucky enough to see a couple of whales and a calf, although they did not get too close. Out photos look like floating logs, but they were fun to watch swimming and spouting.

Southern Right Whale off Head of the Bight

We took the ferry back across the Spencer Gulf, spending the night before at Cowell. Cowell is the source of much very good quality Australian jade, and I bought a couple of carved jade whale tales to make into necklaces. Cowell also has many beautiful old stone buildings, a feature that we noticed throughout South Australia. Even many old barns are carefully constructed of stone and still in use today.

Our next stop was West Beach in Adelaide, where we spent a week exploring the city. We rode bike paths along the coast and the River Torrens; got free seniors transit passes and used them to visit the centre of the city. We walked around the Botanic Gardens which contains 3 spectacular glass houses and the Santos Museum of Economic Botany. This is a restored 19th century museum devoted to plants that are of economic use, the last of its kind in the world. The antique display cases were almost as beautiful as the contents.

We also visited the Art Gallery of South Australia which had 2 modern Japanese art installations. One was a room size web of red wool by Chiharu Shiota called “Absence Embodied” and the other was a mirrored room of reflections by Yayoi Kusama called “The Spirits of the Pumpkins Descended Into The Heavens”. As well, there was a beautiful gallery of 19th and 20th century Japanese pottery. Next door was the South Australian Museum, with a magnificent 3 story display of ocean flora and fauna from the surface to the deepest depths. The giant squid was a favourite among the children visiting there. Not to short change the preforming arts, we got tickets to a bluegrass evening which was part of the Adelaide Cabaret Fringe Festival, and very good it was too. We also visited the Jam Factory Craft Centre which houses a shop, hot glass studios, jewellery workshops and wood workshops.

Absence Embodied 

The Spirits of the Pumpkins Descended Into the Heavens 

Moving along we stopped in Handorf in the Adelaide Hills. It is an arts and craft town, similar to Tilba Tilba NSW or Montville QLD. Lots of lovely little shops and galleries, although the weather was foul; it poured rain most of the morning and discouraged strolling around the pretty streets. We drove on to Nuriootpa, where we camped for a couple of nights to sample some Barossa wine. Once again our trusty bikes carried us around Nuriootpa to wineries, a brew pub, a bush botanic garden and the labyrinth. A labyrinth is not a maze, but a mediation path somewhat like a mandela where you walk and contemplate.

Labyrinth at Nuriootpa

We also booked ourselves into Penfolds winery to do a wine blending afternoon, where we were instructed in how to make a Grenache/Shiraz/Malbec blend. It was lots of fun and we got a small bottle of our own personal blend to take home, as well as a free cellar door tasting afterwards.

From the Barossa we travelled to Peterborough SA which used to be a large rail centre in the days of steam. It is a town where all three gauges of track met and locomotives were maintained and repaired. In the early 1970’s, at the end of the steam era, the centre was closed. It has been reopened as Steam Town (museum), and they have ongoing projects to preserve the buildings, roundhouse, turntable and old rolling stock. Very good tour, and a “sound and light” presentation that was a glorified movie but told the history of rail in the area very well.

Turntable at Steam Town, Peterborough

Engine at  Steam Town, Peterborough

From Peterborough we came back into NSW at Broken Hill and travelled on to Orange. Here we found an odd city that has few bike lanes or facilites for bikes in the downtown, but 10-15 bike trails in the areas around Orange. We did the one urban trail that started from downtown and went south through a number of parks to a beautiful old site called The Springs. This was an important water source and camping spot for aboriginal people as late as the 1930’s. Right next to The Springs was Philip Shaw Wines, where we had a lovely wine tasting and cheese plate in the middle of our ride. Needless to say, the ride home was somewhat slower than the ride out.

We camped one night in the Warrumbungles and made a brief visit to Siding Spring Observatory, planning to return later in the year and spend more time there and in the Piliga forest. We went on to Moree and spent a couple of days trying out the hot springs. We wanted to see a few galleries, but 4 of the 6 on the gallery trail were closed. Ditto the Artesian Aquatic Centre. The 50 metre pool has been torn up as it was leaking and cracking. No one seems to know if or when it will be rebuilt. We did mange to find a few of the lovely art deco buildings that haver been preserved in Moree, but Moree on a winter Saturday is one of the quietest places we visited. Heading home tomorrow. 

Bank Art Museum, Moree

TAFE, Moree

That's all til next time, folks.

On the road again 2022 Across the Nullarbor

We are now in Cape le Grand National Park, Western Australia at Lucky Bay campground. The reason for this trip. 

We left Victoria and headed for Langhorn Creek wine district. Visited Bleasdale winery and the Wine Centre there. Interesting wine varietals. Purchased a Montipulciano, and a Legrein, Italian varieties. 

Moved on to the Yorke Peninsula, and stayed down at the tip at Pondalowie Bay Bush Camp in Dhilba Guuranda-(Innes) National Park. Rode the bicycles to West Head Lighthouse, and visited a 2005 shipwreck ‘O U Dog’.

 We then explored more of the Yorke Peninsula and camped  at Wauraltee Beach. We stayed one night, and the mice took a bite out of every plastic food item we had. However it was a very pretty campsite- see photo.

 

 To avoid driving around the Eyre Gulf, we took the car ferry across to the Eyre Peninsula from Wallaroo to Lucky Bay South Australia. We drove south to stay at Yangie Bay Campground in Coffin Bay National Park. 

As we entered the park we were greeted by a mob of Emus obstructing the road. 

 While in Coffin Bay we took the Oyster HQ tour consisted of wading (wearing the supplied waders) out to an oyster bar in the middle of the bay and being instructed how to open (and consume) the 4 oysters provided with the tour. Of course, a little bubbly doesn’t go astray while shucking. 

 From there it was north to a beautiful ocean front camp site at Streaky Bay, and provisioning for 4 planned nights camping off grid as we crossed the Nullarbor plain to get to Western Australia.

 First stop on the Nullarbor was in a conservation area near Fowlers Bay at Scotts Beach campground. Bobbie went swimming after the 4 fishermen left, not wanting to be hooked or scare the fish.

 Second night at Bunda Cliffs #1 campsite, right on the edge of the Australian Bight. 

 Third night at Caguna Blow Hole, a hole from which air is blown from the caves under the Nullarbor. (No photo of this as a hole in the ground isn’t too exciting) Once in Western Australia (WA) we spent 2 nights in Norseman, where we reprovisioned, showered, and voted in the Election. Norseman is a mining town which makes the best of its attractions. We drove out of Norseman on the Heritage Coach Road that is a historic trail with stops at old settlements and former mine sites. Bite size bits of very digestible history of the mining industry which still drives a large part of the Australian economy. 

On to Esperance and finally we arrived at Lucky Bay. Staying here for 7 nights, doing all the trails, and already have climb Frenchman’s Peak for the 3rd time. Bobbie is swimming daily in the chilly water. No power but flush toilets, warm (sun dependent) showers, and rubbish collection. Not to mention beautiful sparkling white sand beaches, clear turquoise water and small waves. Perfect!

 

Until next time. Bill & Bobbie

On the road again 2022

 Greetings followers,

The blog is back in action.  Once again we are on the road, although this is a trip without particular goal (apart from being on the road again) so it is a bit of a meander.

We left Yamba on April 10 and headed south to King Creek near Wauchope.  Bobbie's cousin Janet, her daughter Dawn and Dawn's son Tavis were visiting Janet's other daughter Darlene and her husband Nigel and children who live in Australia, so we had a mini family reunion. It was great to catch up with everybody and we had sunny skies all the way to Wauchope which was a wonderful change from all the recent rain.

After Wauchope we spent a couple of days in Sydney, staying at Lakeside Caravan Park in Narrabeen getting a tent extension installed on the van.  We had a morning swim with the Bongin Bongin Dawnbusters and caught up with Sydney swimming friends. Bill also had lunch with his usual group of former workmates.  

Ocean Pools at Narrabeen

Ocean Pools at Narrabeen

Our visiting continued as we headed south to  Windellema near Goulburn.  Friends Ray and Gail have small farm there, devoted to supporting superannuated race horses now that Gail has retired from breeding them.  We had another lovely, rain free visit and such at the Lake George Hotel in Bungendore.

After we left Ray and Gail we headed south to Albury. We stayed a couple of days and spent time riding on all the great bike trails through the city.  There is a near bicycle expressway that goes from south of the town to the north, as well as trails that follow creeks through the town and run along the river out to a sculpture park and bird watching area to the west.  On Easter Sunday we headed off the the Rutherglen where friend Ian is a winemaker for Campbells Winery.  They were having a special Easter weekend with music, lunches, tasting and easter egg hunts for the children.  We didn't see Ian as he was busy with the harvest, but we had a great time and bought a couple of bottles of wine.

Easter at Campbell's Albury

Tasting at Campbell's

Easter Monday we headed towards Melbourne.  What a mistake!  Bumper to bumper traffic from at leat 60 kilometres out as people headed back to the city.  We had planned to camp in a national park but it poured rain all day.  When we reached the road to Cooks Mill campground it was 22k of muddy, slippery road and we decided no thanks for one rainy night.  Camped at Merton Racecourse which was very basic but handy and only a gold coin donation to camp.

We headed to Melbourne the next day in pouring rain again that continued all day.  Met up with our friends Hans and Cathy who are staying with relatives while they wait for their new house to be finished.  We braved the rain and spent a fascinating, if wet, afternoon in the Australian Botanic Gardens at Cranbourne.  It has stunning landscapes typical of different areas of Australia, including a dramatic representation of the red centre.  Kathy later made us a great dinner and we had a lovely chat with Han's daughter Ariane and son-in-law Clint.

Our favourite plant Australian Botanical Gardens

Snake Neck Turtle at Australian Botanical Gardens

We'd had enough of rain so we headed off the next day.  We spent about an hour wandering around the very chi-chi streets and shops of Sorrento, then took the ferry across to Queenscliffe.  This allowed us to avoid being through Melbourne, with a peaceful sea voyage instead.  Much more scenic and less stressful.

Sorrento Seas

Sorento from the Ferry

Our destination that night was Ocean Grove on the Bellarine Peninsula.  There are huge caravan parks there as it is favourite summer place for Melbournians.  Luckily, bookings taper off after Easter and the park there was fairly full but quiet.  We spent a few days exploring Ocean Beach and neighbouring Barwon Heads across the Barwon River.  Once again, lots of long bicycle and walking tracks excellent for exploring.  We also found two department store size op shops, Vinnies and the Salvos, in the industrial area while we were looking for plumbing parts.  I could not believe the amount and quality of stock. Good thing I don't live here.  We also found a huge Aquatic Centre and I had a swim.

Barwon Heads

Barwon Heads River Mouth

For Anzac Day weekend we went inland to Colac, a lovely little country town.  We travelled along the Surf Coast section the Great Ocean Road, which has historic lighthouses and beautiful scenery along a breathtaking, winding road along the coast.  Turned off at Skenes Creek and drove up through the ranges  to Lakeside Caravan Park, a park that has only unpowered or funny old ensuite sites.  Beautiful location on the Lake Colac right between the botanic gardens and the bird sanctuary.  It has it's own little coffee caravan and immediate access to a beautiful bike path all along the lake.  The town has lovely old houses, and a rowing club and a sailing club that date back the late 1800's.  At a regatta in 1879, they attracted over 3,00 visitors.  Fascinating little place to stay.

From Split Point Lighthouse on Surf Coast Road 

Split Point Lighthouse, near start of Great Ocean Road

Old buildings converted to units in Colac

Lake Colac Yacht Club

After Colac we headed back to the coast on the Great Ocean Road again.  On our way we stopped at the Otway Fly, the world's tallest Tree top walk among the giant Black Ash.  We also did a short walk to Triplet Falls, a pretty stream near an old logging site.

Triplet Falls

Otway Fly

We camped at Blanket Bay, west of Apollo Bay right on the beach.  The beach was sandy with rock outcrops.  Swam but it was cold with a strong, cold onshore wind.  We had a protected spot in the trees.  Lots of birdlife and a koala who wandered through our campsite.  We hiked along the coast to Parker Hill, which is part way to the Cape Otway Light.  Left to late to do the 10K one-way trek.  Again, beautiful coastal scenery.

Snoozing Koala

On our way again, we stopped at all the tourist sites on the Great Ocean Road.  We camped for a night at Port Fairy, a pretty historic town that is a tourist mecca, partly due to the annual folk festival.  I have never seem so many old stone buildings, from cottages to mansions.  Very trendy shops.  I had to mail a parcel to my sister and while I was in the post office Bill wandered into a men's shop and bought two pair of shoes!! 

I managed a swim at the Aquatic Centre which is right next to Southcombe Caravan Park before we left on Thursday.  We stopped at the port  part of Port Fairy and saw this interesting historical flood sign.  I hope you can read the blow up.  The full height of the sign in the first picture is 2.3 metres and the flood described in 1946 was 2.7 metres.  Does the scenario sound familiar?

Port Fairy

We headed for the Coonawarra and ended up at Coonawarra Bush Holiday Camp.  Is is more like a farm front yard holiday park with a big muddy pond that is apparently for swimming.  No thanks.  Otherwise OK with a good camp kitchen and friendly staff.  The so called "lake" looks very pretty at night with the fence around it topped by fairy lights but I'm not tempted to swim.

Coonawarra Bush Holiday Park "Swimming Lake" and Glamping Tents.

Til next time.

Bobbie and Bill